Support for the DIY speaker builder

 
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Wolf
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Location: Indiana
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Trying this out...

Mon Feb 20, 2012 7:59 pm

Posting some coils I just cut bobbins for and wound them up....

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2.7mH 18AWG steel core:
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(Note- this is not a good core material, I understand that. The fact that I'm using this coil in an LCR for an out of bandwidth shunt-notch makes me believe it will not see much signal.)

many bobbin parts:
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0.5mH 16AWG:
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0.025mH:
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Thanks for looking!
Wolf
 
meniscus
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Re: Trying this out...

Tue Feb 21, 2012 2:46 pm

Ben,

That's how I started winding them too!

Mark
 
Jeff B.
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Re: Trying this out...

Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:16 pm

Hey Ben, that's pretty cool. I'm just way too lazy to wind my own. I'll just order from Mark and make him do it. :D

Jeff

Testing edits
Jeff's Excel Loudspeaker Design Software
http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html
 
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Wolf
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Re: Trying this out...

Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:16 pm

I guess the E6000 isn't strong enough to hold the bobbin together. I'll try some wood glue, or maybe some RTV.
Jeff- I just got sick of not ever having the values I needed, so I started down this path.
It helps immensely! I've already wound about 10 coils.

Later,
Wolf

Testing
 
speekerbldr
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Re: Trying this out...

Wed Nov 21, 2012 5:57 pm

I'm with Jeff. I let Meniscus wind them for me.

=)

Site seems to work quite well. It downloads images really fast.
 
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Wolf
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Re: Trying this out...

Thu Nov 22, 2012 4:18 am

First xover done with some of my own coils, used in the Stance kit:
Image

All but one are my own hand-wound per board.
Later,
Wolf
 
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Wolf
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Made a jig to wind bobbinless coils...

Mon Jan 14, 2013 12:17 am

Built using 0.22" acrylic. I cut these from scrap using the Router Buddy circle-jig and a V-Groove bit. Make a cut on both sides to remove the circle from the sheet.
Then I used a Forstner bit to drill the 8 holes per 'wheel' to end the slots, and enlarged the circle pilot to 1/4". I then used the pilot to mount with a single screw on a piece of MDF where the blade of the miter-saw would intersect the midpoint between the circles, and lightly chopped some slits to cut for the slit opening, flipped the wheel, and recut to cut through. I then removed some excess material, as well as sanded and torch-polished to smooth out the roughness. The center hub is from a port hole in another project that I cut notches in to allow for the zipties to be slipped through the coil after it's wound to fasten it. I picked up some nylon bolts and wingnuts to avoid the value being off when winding. Use a Bulldog clamp to secure wire after it's been cut to attache the zipties. Works like a charm!

Image
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Is it Perfect-Lay? Not quite, but it's close. The unit pictured is a 1.5mH 16AWG coil.
Later,
Wolf
 
lowpolyjoe
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Re: Trying this out...

Tue Feb 19, 2013 5:05 pm

Really love that system you put together. Big thumbs up
 
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Wolf
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First of the Litz-wire coils...

Wed Mar 27, 2013 2:52 am

I also have some 18.5AWG Litz-wire, and I'm just now trying it out. Due to the mention of them for the Kairos kit in Meniscus' writeup, I figured it was due time. I used my jig as before, and wound up 7 layers, and came out to 0.436/0.428mH and 0.3 ohms DCR. :)

The finer strands in the Litz wire pulled a bit on the particle-board fibers, so I may have to invest in the slippery-plastic to make bobbins for my jig. This way they won't snag like they did, even though it was a minor movement and nothing broke as a result. Being these are the first pair I made of the Litz's, I think they turned out rather nicely. :mrgreen: :geek:

Caveats of this wire format- ;)
-The previously mentioned pulling of strands
-The wire is more flexible, and therefore the coil can be squished easier, and keeping the shape is indeed important. I would advise a poly-dip for this type of wire because of this issue.
-ability to check value is harder mid-winding, because the wires need to be soldered to be electrically bound.
-soldering is not as easy- I used a 100W gun to solder the ends of these together, another option is a solder-pot which can be extremely dangerous to those unfamiliar.
-tables that equate wire and size and number of turns are likely to be more effective at getting your approximate value before soldering the measuring to verify.
-zipties in my jig will bunch the wire more forcefully than with solid-core, so I used more zipties on the perimeter to make it more uniform.

Since I used the same bobbin to wind a value of another coil with solid-core, I counted the layers and went with that for these, and came out pretty close. So that is another way to approximate a value.

Later,
Wolf

Image
 
kenrhodes
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Re: Trying this out...

Wed May 22, 2013 11:08 pm

At work I have access to LOTS of electro magnetic wire wouldn't that work fine for coils?

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