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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Wed May 21, 2014 6:46 pm

Here's a very short video that shows how easy it is to apply PSA veneer. The key is having a helping hand and making sure your initial sticking point on the panel is correct. The 3M adhesive is VERY strong. Once you stick, you gotta commit!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgAxVUabkBg
Bryan K.
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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Thu May 22, 2014 6:09 pm

I mentioned in an earlier post that I have yet to unbox some tools and DIY supplies and apparently my Waterlox is one of those items that's still packed away somewhere!! With InDIYana right around the corner, I don't really have time (or motivation) to go to storage and rifle thru a bunch of boxes, so I grabbed what was left of some MinWax PolyShades finish that I used late last year to restore an office desktop. The (eventual) new owner of the Docere MLTL currently has some old school Cerwin Vegas that have a similar finish. It will be satin, so it's going to be a duller finish than Waterlox but that's not a deal breaker. In fact, I'm pretty happy with the outcome so far.

Seeing that the PolyShades product is a stain+poly, I prepped the cheery veneer with a highly diluted dewaxed shellac coating (like 5 parts denatured alcohol to 1 part shellac). Brushed that on really quick...let it dry and sanded with 220. This prep helps to reduce blotching, which can get bad in cherry veneer. Wiped the cabinets down with a clean alcohol-dipped rag to get rid of any dust and then I applied the first coat of PolyShades.

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The first coat is pretty thin. Inspecting it in sunlight reveals a bit of unevenness, which is most likely due to poor garage lighting and my crappy brushing skills. Tomorrow I will sand this lightly with 220 and apply a second coat.

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I used this veneer on my Seas Trym MLTL which I stained and varnished and I had a hell of a time dealing with severe blotchiness. So far with this first coat of stain+poly, I cannot complain about blotches.

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Bryan K.
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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Thu May 22, 2014 6:22 pm

Unfinished veneer vs. one coat of PolyShades satin pecan

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Bryan K.
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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Fri May 23, 2014 8:37 pm

Second coat applied today. This polyshades stuff goes on really thin and definitely requires multiple coats. When I used it on the desktop, it was easier because the surface was horizontal. I'm finding out that this product isn't as friendly on verticals. It runs very easily making thin multiple coats necessary.

Sanded the original coat with 220 and A LOT of it came right off....ugh.

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Applied a second coat and since the grain is mostly sealed with the first coat, the polyshades product ran on me multiple times. I had to really be careful.

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After an hour of dry time:

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I think I'm going to squeak one more coat on before Indy. However, I could see myself adding a few more afterwards. Yeah right. :roll:
Bryan K.
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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Mon May 26, 2014 4:42 pm

Crossovers done:

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Terminal cups installed. The XOs are glued to the inside bottom panel and the terminal cup is about 3" up from the bottom.

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Ran the driver leads up thru the brace holes and zipped them up on each brace.

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Just need to stuff the line, glue, flush trim and roundover the front baffle, slap some Duratex on it and install the drivers. Easy. :shock:
Bryan K.
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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Tue May 27, 2014 8:36 pm

More progress........

Line stuffed to two inches below the woofer where I conveniently located a brace to mark the end of the line. I ended up using 18 pieces of Meniscus bonded dacron. Five of the pieces are a bit smaller to allow room for the magnet of the Eclipse midbass unit.

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One "slice" of dacron:

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Oversized baffle glued and screwed onto the cabinet. This will not be removeable. I will bondo over the screws.

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Side view of attached baffle before flush trimming:

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I've got 1/4" of overhang to flush trim.

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After the initial flush trimming with the large bit. I will go over it again with a smaller bit to get it perfectly flush with the veneer after I do the roundover. The blue painter's tape that I use to protect the finish doesn't allow a perfectly flush baffle so I can either do some sanding or use a smaller bit with no masking tape or possibly I'll try the shelf liner for protection. That's actually thinner than the masking tape. I'll deal with it tomorrow.

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Ran into a little snafu with my large flush trim bit. Ugh. Discussing it on PETT here: http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showt ... hich-is-it

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Fairly large roundover - almost 3/4" -- This leaves me with minimal material to flush trim perfectly up to the veneer line. So I'll probably hit it with the smaller flush trim bit using shelf liner for finish protection. Notice the shelf liner on the top of the baffle. It sticks good enough to run the router over and it covers all the driver cutouts. This ensures the plywood and mdf dust only hit me and doesn't fly into the cabinet. Win win.

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Bryan K.
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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Wed May 28, 2014 5:57 pm

Coming down to the wire...... I almost decided to bring them to Indy with a naked front baffle but I'm hell-bent on getting them looking semi-pretty for the show, so here goes.

Ran a smaller flush trim bit over the front baffle without any protection on the side panels. Nice and even now.

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Bondo over the front baffle screws.

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....and some sanding and more bondo.

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A little more sanding and bondo.

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Time for my favorite paint in the whole universe - Duratex!!

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I will sand this first coat tomorrow and add another. Also have some patch work to do on the roundovers in the plywood endgrain, so more bondo work on the docket as well for tomorrow. Basic plywood never rounds over gracefully it seems, but a little bondo and a couple more coats of Duratex will really even them out.

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Bryan K.
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bkeane1259
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Thu May 29, 2014 6:29 pm

Today's last minute progress.

Patched up the roundovers with bondo. The next time I do a constrained layer baffle I think I will make the top layer MDF because it rounds over so much better than plywood.

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The good thing is that working under the sun makes the bondo and Duratex dry super fast which is good because I had to paint, sand, bondo, sand, paint, sand, bondo and repeat. Sun, FTW.

Wrapped the ports with Protecto Wrap to add some damping to the rather thin 2.5" ABS flared ports from PE. Protecto Wrap is good and dirt cheap and it works: http://tinyurl.com/p8z5k8u

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I had a mini panic attack when I tried to push these ports in by hand......ended up using a hammer and beating them into submission. Got Gorilla glue all over my hands in the process....yay.

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Ready for drivers.

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Drivers installed and then I notice a major cosmetic flaw. The drivers are not centered perfectly!!! :cry:
I have no clue what happened but BOTH cabinets have the same error so at least I have symmetry.

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Anyway, they are done for the show and the finish, while not perfect, is better than naked for sure. Shout out to Duratex for making life easy.

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Inside for a quick test and all appears to be good. I listened to two songs.....next time these puppies will sing will be in Fort Wayne.

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Bryan K.
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kenny_k
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Fri May 30, 2014 5:01 pm

I didn't notice the speaker offset until you opened you BIG mouth. They look GREAT and my opinion counts! You da Man Bryan.
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mattsk8
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Re: Docere MLTL - build thread

Tue Jun 03, 2014 11:43 am

That's funny, I sat in front these for how long Friday night and into Saturday morning and never noticed it?! These sound amazing!!! Thanks for bringing them, was a great time!

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