So- I set out to model the box using measured T/S...
NOTE: Notice the power input level, the output at about 95dB, and the Xmax basically riding the line. The Mms of this midbass is only 13g, and according to a Klippel measurement I've seen, the AC of the coil is set a touch forward of optimal position. IT IS EASY TO PUSH THIS DRIVER INTO DISTORTING BASS RANGES. Point blank- if you use it in a large room, use a subwoofer and a cap of 150uF or smaller to avoid it farting around. If you use it nearfield or against a wall in a smaller room with limited output, it will likely be just fine. For the demo at Meniscus a couple weeks ago, I used the 150uF caps, and my Triumph sub design. (http://s18.photobucket.com/user/wolf_te ... t=3&page=1) I think these would be great as a set of bridge-monitors.
I used a sealed box, stuffed with Ultratouch denim damping to hopefully protect it from overexcursion. It also happens to be a PE knockdown cabinet at its heart.
The 4101 is centered at the 2" mark from the closest side-edge, and the midbass within a 1/4" from its other side, both centered vertically on the baffle face. The 4101 is an open-back of sorts, and I was able to flush mount it within the thickness of the baffle to keep it isolated. No damping in the planar cavity, as there is not room. This element will also not take quick disconnects, so solder is a must. I ended up pre-tinning the wires for attachment with solder, and laying them lengthwise alongside the terminals and applying heat for bonding. There really is not an easier way.
Xover arrangement...
I tried both for this set of drivers in terms of method, both series and parallel topologies. In fact, I have a parallel version wired up but have not tried it. Anyway- It was easier to get a good result with fewer parts using the series xover method, so I went with that one. Note- I don't normally use an SXO with a ribbon/planar driver, as it can be harder on tweeters than the parallel modus. Being that I have a xover point of 7.4kHz, and that I used a 0.05mH/16AWG coil (wound it myself, along with the 1.35mH) in the main leg of the network, followed by a 2.0uF cap for a second order electrical; it left me at ease in doing this under safe operations. The CTC is about 3", and that approximates 4.5kHz for xover point, so it is a half-octave above that estimate. Oh well...
The 4101 has a stiffly peaked response centered about 12kHz, and rolls off hard to either side. The 0.05mH coil shunts off level to help flatten this out, and the cap steepens the order. Listening to it in sweeps, you basically have no output below about 5-6kHz range. There is a bit of excessive ripple in the top-end of the 151, and that helps balance out the top-octave rather nicely in tandem. Even though this has a full xover, and is not just a super-tweeter implementation, it is mainly to help the off-axis response the 151 just does not have.
The 151 has a resonance in the upper midrange that makes it sound a bit forward, so I added a notch there for tonal balance; and listened a LONG TIME for preference on the resistor value. 10 ohms to 12 ohms is the range. The 10 seemed a bit shouty, the 12 seemed a bit dark. Depending on your application, this could be beneficial to pick what's best for you. I chose the 11 ohm Lynk resistor Meniscus offers to be the best compromise for me. I also did something I don't normally do for the midbass- I overcomped the baffle-step a tad. I set that at about 8dB, as sometimes these wide-range drivers can sound a touch lean or lack warmth. Coupled with the highish sealed Qtc, it sounds good. The wood does a good job with the warmer character.
Reverse-null for those who want to see it...
Positions on baffle:
(before I swapped in the Lynk and soldered it up)
(After the Lynk swap)
The bump at ~1kHz made me want to forge ahead with the large radius half-rounds I had planned, filled of course with my proprietary 'unused feline clay sand'. I used biscuits and Gorilla-glue to bond them, and a couple #9 x 4" or so screws for clamping and hold while curing. These screws remove any twist that might be present in the semi-circular additions. Nothing a little clamping pressure can't fix in this case.
I skinned the top and bottom with hardboard, and brush-coated the entire cab with Elmer's glue-all white glue, nondiluted. (There is packing tape over the planars to keep them safe. It can't be seen in the photo. It was easier to leave them in with the soldered contacts than remove them at that point in time.)
I did not have the exact size corrugated tubes to match the depth of the cabinet, or I would have. The roundover I placed above the drivers on the top-front edge is to fix a mistake I have done too many times- flush trimming into/against a driver rebate. I had to fill the second one, but it masked the first. Yes- I DID IT TWICE! You can see the fill on one of them.
A bit of Rustoleum Midnight Blue Satin, and VHT Burnt Copper, and you get this below:
I used some coat-hooks to set the proper angle when placed on average speaker stands, as these have tight vertical off-axis response. The imaging is VERY good because the 151 covers most of the range of the design, including pretty much all dialog and vocals. If the speaker can fire straight forward at you from a higher level off the floor, then please omit feet. I wanted a bit of an antique feel with these, and I feel I succeeded.
Thanks for looking!
Wolf