

Anyone interested can purchase the complete kit here- http://meniscusaudio.com/statements-pair-p-1338.html
The only change I made was at the base, I didn't want the 3" thick one w/ the 2" tall spike feet, so I changed mine up just a bit. The internal air space of the cabinets are still the same as Jim and Curt's original design, and I ended up at about 61" tall once I got the spike feet I used on them.
Long, long ago when I laid out the first sheet of 3/4" MDF...

1/2" and 3/4" MDF glued up, speaker holes cut in, edges rabbeted and threaded inserts installed...

After assembling the midrange cabinets, cutting braces, and running more rabbets and dados I test fit everything just to make sure my brain was working...

The main cabinet glue/clamp up/assembly...

I place the midrange xover on top of the upper mid tunnel, and the woofer/tweeter xover board on base of the cabinet. Both xovers are accessible in case something goes wrong.
A pic of the cabinet all assembled, wired, wedge foam glued in, mid tunnel foam glued in, and wired up waiting for drivers...

A pic of the speakers all assembled and ready to get pounded on for their test drive; also the way they sat for about a year before I got around to finally coming up w/ a finish design and actually finishing them...

As far as the final finish goes, I wanted to tie them in w/ the room my dad was going to put them in; which has hickory hardwood flooring, arched windows and a black pool table (it's his rec room). The furniture in the room is mostly distressed, aged furniture so I tried to keep that in mind.
Given the distressed, aged motif of the room, I decided to use mottled copper veneer for the front baffles and also for the backs of the speakers. I also knew I wanted magnets for the grills, so I recessed magnets in the MDF then bondo'd over them so they were flush and you wouldn't see them through the copper veneer. Here's a pic of masking them off so I could roll the contact cement down...

This is a pic of the grill frames roughed in and laid out over the copper veneer so I could cut the copper down to size...

Here's a pic of the copper glued and trimmed. If anyone's interested in using copper veneer, here's a couple tips. It's expensive, it ran about $200ish for enough to do the fronts and backs of these. Its EXTREMELY delicate and bends/dents/scratches super easy. When flush trimming the edges w/ a router, clamp a 1/4" thick board over the top of it for your router to ride on or you'll scratch it; I learned that the hard way


To cut the drivers out, I used a utility knife and cut the holes slightly smaller than the actual hole. I then cut circles using a Jasper circle jig that were exactly the same diameter as the driver hole and used it to tap the veneer into the hole. It actually worked very well. Here's a pic of what I mean, you can see how the veneer rolls into the recess...

I already had a bunch of hickory hardwood left over from a hickory kitchen I built years ago, so that's what I used for the veneer. I took the 3/4" thick hickory, fed it through my resaw and cut it in half, which then gave me 2 slices at just shy of 3/8" thick. I then planed those down to 1/4" thick, which is what I used for veneer. Here's a pic of the veneer pieces waiting for the glue up...

4 pieces of hickory make up each side. I glued 2 on by brushing Tightbond on the back of the veneer, then once those dried I'd finish the other half. I made some clamp boards out of some 3/4" HDPE plastic. Here's a pic of the veneer all clamped on...

And finally, here's some pics of the finished speakers. I brushed on 3 coats of Cermithane finish for the final finish. I also did the inlay on the bottom front to give a bit of pool table character; on is an 8 ball rack and the other is a 9 ball rack.
I still haven't finished the grills. Once I get those done, I'll post a pic of them in their intended area, grills and all.