The speaker kit is here, the wood is cut (Jasper circle jig was a god sent).
- In Jim's description of the cabinet build he was clamping the wood that connects to the PVC tube and making a round over. I'm not quite sure what part gets the round over? The inside of the mid range 3/4"baffle?
- Anything else require round overs, inside 3/4" baffle tweeter, woofer inside hole, window brace edges, inside and or outside of the holes for the mid range tunnel in back of the to speaker cabinet?
-In regards to the cabinet assembly is it better to glue both the 9 1/2" by 7 1/2" (pieces that attach to PVC)to inside of the front baffle and to the inside of the back cabinet baffle. Centred around the mid range 4 3/4" hole's, looks like the upper edge to the wood will be right at the bottom of the tweeter hole?
-Then glue the window brace to the back cabinet baffle and to the bottom of the 9 1/2" by 7 1/2 (piece that attaches to PVC)? Let dry. Screw cross overs to back cabinet baffle and install wires, speaker wire posts and sound damping insulation. Test cross overs and speakers? Then glue and brad nail the two cabinets side pieces? Install PVC tunnel (remembering to drill a hole for the speaker wire) and glue and brad nail the front baffle? Or install PVC and front baffle after the back and two sides are dry?
- Any recommends for what type of glue or silicone for PVC to wood?
- Is it tricky keeping the cabinet square during the assembly process, any tips?
- Venner cabinet install speakers, enjoy best speakers I've ever heard.
Thanks for answering my questions, and putting me on the right track and hopefully this will answer the questions future builders will have. Thanks to Jim and Curt for making the designs available, and to Meniscus audio for putting the kits together.
Finalist speaker build questions.
Re: Finalist speaker build questions.
Hi Norm,
Rounding over the inside of inner front baffle so that it blends into the PVC tube helps the sound waves transition out the back of the driver and eliminates "tunneling". I also round over the inner baffle for the RS225 too but it's less critical. Any other rounding over inside the cabinet just makes it pretty inside.
I use Titebong glue. I prefer III but I or II also work fine. Clamp times vary as does moisture resistance. The strength is the same.
I build from the side up by laying down one of the side panels and assembling the top, bottom and inner front panels. I use a brad nailer to hold them in position until I can clamp them securely in place. They have to be exact so the other panels will fit correctly. Once it's dry, I then assemble the front retaining MDF plate you created and glue it in place positioning it so the holes align for the driver. After it's dry, then glue the window pane brace, PVC tube and the rear aligning plate to the front. Next glue the back panel in place with the port hole cut. The back of the mid tube is still uncut so cut a small hole in the center of the back where the PVC tube is and then use a router with flush trim bit to cut the back panel hole to match the mid tube. Finally, glue on the remaining side. Hopefully everything lines up.
The fool proof method is to slightly over size the remaining side panel and use your router with a flush trim bit to end up with an exact fit. Then glue on the 1/2" front baffle.
Nothing to it!
My disclaimer... I'm not the sharpest nail in the box when it comes to building cabinets. There are probably easier ways to do what I just described but it does work for me.
Good luck!
Rounding over the inside of inner front baffle so that it blends into the PVC tube helps the sound waves transition out the back of the driver and eliminates "tunneling". I also round over the inner baffle for the RS225 too but it's less critical. Any other rounding over inside the cabinet just makes it pretty inside.
I use Titebong glue. I prefer III but I or II also work fine. Clamp times vary as does moisture resistance. The strength is the same.
I build from the side up by laying down one of the side panels and assembling the top, bottom and inner front panels. I use a brad nailer to hold them in position until I can clamp them securely in place. They have to be exact so the other panels will fit correctly. Once it's dry, I then assemble the front retaining MDF plate you created and glue it in place positioning it so the holes align for the driver. After it's dry, then glue the window pane brace, PVC tube and the rear aligning plate to the front. Next glue the back panel in place with the port hole cut. The back of the mid tube is still uncut so cut a small hole in the center of the back where the PVC tube is and then use a router with flush trim bit to cut the back panel hole to match the mid tube. Finally, glue on the remaining side. Hopefully everything lines up.
The fool proof method is to slightly over size the remaining side panel and use your router with a flush trim bit to end up with an exact fit. Then glue on the 1/2" front baffle.
Nothing to it!
My disclaimer... I'm not the sharpest nail in the box when it comes to building cabinets. There are probably easier ways to do what I just described but it does work for me.
Good luck!
Re: Finalist speaker build questions.
what i did when i built the finalists is:
make all the panels and mock them up to make sure they fit.
attach the top and bottom to one side, then the back panel
rout the holes in the squares that hold the pvc
put the pipe and two squares into the cab where they go and attach
attach the 1/2" face and use the router jig to do the recess and then the mid cutout
drill a whole through the center of the pipe location and use a long flush cut bit to route the pipe hole
drill a hole in the back panel, and use a flush bit to route the back pipe hole
use a half inch rabbiting bit with bearing at quarter inch increments to get to half inch depth on the back pipe hole
use the circle jig to make the back pipe cover
also you can use either high adhesive hot glue(black or kinda looks glowy) not the cheap white sticks, or construction adhesive to secure the pipe
remember to do all your foam and stuffing before you close the cab up
i know this is my first post here, but i have been active on tech talk forum for a while. my cab skills far exceed my design skills.
make all the panels and mock them up to make sure they fit.
attach the top and bottom to one side, then the back panel
rout the holes in the squares that hold the pvc
put the pipe and two squares into the cab where they go and attach
attach the 1/2" face and use the router jig to do the recess and then the mid cutout
drill a whole through the center of the pipe location and use a long flush cut bit to route the pipe hole
drill a hole in the back panel, and use a flush bit to route the back pipe hole
use a half inch rabbiting bit with bearing at quarter inch increments to get to half inch depth on the back pipe hole
use the circle jig to make the back pipe cover
also you can use either high adhesive hot glue(black or kinda looks glowy) not the cheap white sticks, or construction adhesive to secure the pipe
remember to do all your foam and stuffing before you close the cab up
i know this is my first post here, but i have been active on tech talk forum for a while. my cab skills far exceed my design skills.