Blues TM first ever build!

[mattsk8]

Assuming all the values are correct (and based on the ones I can see they look good), the crossovers look good . How are the cabinets coming along?

Just FYI, don't forget to switch the polarity on the tweeter. I almost always forget to do that .

[meniscus]

Awesome! I will probably buy the $269 one!

Finally I am going to start soldering tomorrow. How do I check the polarity on the components. I can't find any positive or negative markings on the components or on the tweeter and woofer themselves. Are the components in this kit polarized? or can I hook them up in either direction?

Parts are not polarize. You can connect either end of the part.
Mark

[pleppink]

I've been a little busy the last few days so I haven't had a chance to finish up the cabinets, but I did order the router guide you recommended so that should make making the circular cuts easier. I am going to work on them Thursday night, and I'll let you know how it goes!

[pleppink]

I finished the front baffles! The circle router rig worked great!

Do you have any tips for painting them? I am not sure I want to do veneers for these (I want to finish them this weekend and I don't really know how to do veneers). Would spray painting them be a good alternative?

[bullittstang]

You can certainly paint the baffles. I would suggest "flat" black or at the most a satin finish, because going gloss on your first try will typically result in hair being pulled out. Go over the bare MDF with at least 2-3 coats of primer, or use a sanding sealer on the wood (others use a 50/50 mix of wood glue and water too). MDF is very porous and you'll waste a lot of time and money if you go straight to paint.
Once you get a good smooth sealed baffle (sanded to at least 220 grit) go for the paint. Again, go slow and build up 2-3 light coats and then sane up to at least 400 grit, then go for the final coat. This will be the most important, so make sure the surface is smooth and free of any dust or debris before you paint.
If you did it right, you should have a very nice finished product.
Remember, if you used Butt-joints on the cabinet and you want to paint, you will really have to make sure you seal, sand and get those perfectly smooth before painting or they will telegraph through.
Personally veneer is WAY EASIER, especially if you get the 3M backed version. Cherry, Oak or Mahogany isn't too expensive either.

[pleppink]

Would it be easiest to do veneers? How would I put them on the front around the speaker holes?

[pleppink]

Also I am planning on doing butt-joints. Should I use screws to strengthen them or will glue be strong enough? I am planning on at least trying to put in one of those window bracing pieces. Can I use my router to cut out the holes in those?

[pleppink]

Here is the finished cabinet. (Only had enough clamps to do one.)

[pleppink]

!

[mattsk8]

Very nice!! Glad to see they're almost done!! Regarding paint, a lot of guys also use Duratex
http://store.acrytech.com/Speaker-Cabin ... Black.html

Here are some pics of cabinets done with Duratex. You can get black, or colors.
https://www.google.com/search?q=duratex ... 504#imgrc=_

You're close to listening to these . Are you going to completely finish them, or put them together first so you can listen for a bit before you paint??

[pleppink]

I was thinking I would fully finish them. I don't have too much going on this week so hopefully I will be listening to them by this weekend.

I have one quick question about the joints and the crossovers. I did butt joints which I read arent always very strong. Should I use screws to re-enforce them or will guerrilla wood glue be strong enough? Also I am planning on using some double sided adhesive to anchor the crossovers to the bottom of the speaker. That way they shouldnt jostle around too much but I will also be able to get them out if I need to make repairs. Does that seem like a decent plan?

[mattsk8]

I'm guessing you used hot glue to glue the xover components to the xover board; right? If yes, you can use your hot glue to also glue the board to the speaker cabinet.

One thing I would do if I were you is zip tie your inductors to your xover board, those are usually what can potentially break loose when you move the speaker around just because they're a tad heavy for just using hot glue.

I generally screw the xover to the cabinet using 3/4" long woodscrews. But I have used hot glue successfully too, it's just harder to remove if you ever needed to for whatever reason.

[pleppink]

Here they are!

[pleppink]

I think I am going to go with using the primer and spray paint method. I have a friend who is pretty good with painting wood so she is going to help me (plus then I should be able to have them up and running this weekend). I am thinking of doing the front baffles maroon and the rest black.

And sounds good with the zip ties. I'll get those locked down.

[pleppink]

Also would it be a good idea to reinforce the front baffle joints with screws in the corners? It looks like the finished product picture you sent me has some screws.